![]() The coarse ones are more black than anything. ![]() One of my fine carbide wheels has a light green tint. Wiki has carbide as yellow to green to bluish black. In fact they're outlasting the cheap air tools! I expected all the teeth to be ripped off after an hour of work, but after about 15 hours accumulated work still good as new. And I was surprised at how long they last. If you use them hard then the solder can soften and the cutter head falls off.Īgree with the comment about getting solids. Cheapies are commonly a TC cutter silver soldered or brazed to a steel shank. If buying rotary burrs make sure you get the solid carbide ones. Use tungsten carbide rotary burrs for metal removal and those stones for final finishing. They are used for grinding tungsten carbide cutting tools such as lathe tools. Silicon carbide wheels are always green in my experience. I think I would do bulk removal with the die grinder and then refine the surface with one of your stones. Have a look at the die grinders though - a good set in the tool shops are around $100 for five shapes - a well known hardware chain sells similar sets for twice the price - even cheaper on the net. One of your coarse stones should do for a small one off job. I find pure aluminium tends to clog the grindstone face, in the worst case running the grindstone on some brick material to freshen the grindstone. Mounting in a four jaw or face plate on the lathe might give you the centering needed. It just needs less than a mm removed from 1/2 of it now. I used a metal lathe to take out the bulk of the material but it wouldn't mount dead straight so I stopped short to finish it by hand rather and thought the air grinder might be the easiest for the job. I've just got a bit of aluminium that i want to clean up (it's the replacement for the EGR piece prior to the inlet manifold on my TD5 - it's a 60mm pipe but the opening at the mounting flange was only 56mm so I wanted to open it up by removing the lip). ![]() If you have the money and the inclination, get some carbide bits and watch the metal chips fly. Using the convention in the top pic, their spec shows AlOx grit, various grits (36, 46, 60) and PV signifying Pointed vitrified. If you were to buy some of those 'vitrified mounted points', there are a few options available from St Gobain (Flexovit), and they have a classification system to make a bit more sense of it all. Is there any spec written on it? To be blunt, if it was for a job that mattered,you wouldn't be using the cheap ones that came in the box in any case. For grinding or cutting wheels, there is a spec printed on each disc that will give info on what makes up the disc, and where its strengths may lie (ie large agressive grit, and bond strength holding it all together)įor vitrified mounted points like you've pictured, there is a standard, but for the sort of stones you get with a dremel or other tool, it's probably pot luck.Ĭolor may signify various grits for some manufacturers, but your mileage may vary.
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